It was a cloudy Thursday, precisely 13th of this month. Weather forecast was least assuring, threatening me with a precipitation > 90% in and around Giridih. If you are a motorcycle fascinated with monsoon rides, you just can't afford to pet ombrophobia. After cross-checking multiple weather predictions from different Internet sources when I was sure that there was hardly any possibility of thunderstorm at Giridih, I finalized my riding destination for the day right in the crack of dawn. Giridih, the land of hills and hillocks, is the headquarter of Giridih district of the Indian state of Jharkhand. Despite Giridih's location in the mining belt, its natural grandeur and presence of abundant religious sites have secured it a popular spot in the tourist map of Eastern India. Oh, don't mind that amiable chameleon in the cover photograph. I met him in the jungle adjacent to Usri Waterfall. Although there are several places of tourist interest at Giridih,
considering the paucity of time and unpredictability of the season I had
decided to limit my focus only on two sites- lofty Harihar Dham Temple
at Bagodar, and the untamed monsoon impregnated Usri Falls located at a
close proximity to Giridih town.
Benu clocked almost 540 kilometers in the day, and she was all geared up for her 2nd servicing. |
My first halt of the day, Harihar Dham was pretty easy to find. Bagodar directly falls on NH-2 (presently, renamed as NH-19), approximately 240 kilometers north of Bardhaman. As you leave the national highway and take a left diversion thereafter, drive a couple of kilometers at most to reach Harihar Dham Temple. After crossing Raniganj, a sudden pour reminded me that my breakfast was due. Luckily I could spot a decent highway inn before rain could embrace me more intimately. Here comes the best part- the Aloo Paratha they had served me with a tumbler full of Punjabi Tea was truly rejuvenating! As I crossed the Bengal-Jharkhand interstate border I was quite
surprised to find no congestion of loaded trucks and other
goods-carrying vehicles. Those commercial drivers must be thanking the newly introduced GST
(Goods and Services Tax) for putting an end to their hours of waiting at
every state border to oblige custom police with relevant taxes and
bribes.
Probably those colorfully crafted swords are local handicrafts of Isri. |
Road deteriorated as Benu touched the highway passing through Jharkhand. There are unpredictable furrows, inappropriate elevations and sudden potholes over the Delhi-Kolkata Highway to make your high speed cruising sufficiently life threatening! Considering the congestion of heavy vehicles over NH-2 such distortion of the tarmac is no surprise. But, my question is- Why NH-2 is not being maintained at Jharkhand? Who, or what is stopping NNHAI (National Highway Authority of India) from carrying out their duties even after leeching bagful of money from passing by vehicles? Do share your opinion. Sometime after crossing the coal-dust coated city of Dhanbad, I passed
through Isri, the small town from where devout Jains start their
Parasnath Hill pilgrimage. I was surprised to see a number of roadside shops selling designer canes
and colorful swords. I could relate the cane with hiking, but why would
anyone sell swords near a Jain pilgrim site?
Harihar Dham Temple boasts of housing the largest Shivalinga in the world. |
I stopped by one such shop and presented the seller with my innocent doubt. He was cordial but not so rich with information. All he said was, "These are sold here", as if I didn't already know that! Probably those colorfully crafted swords are local handicrafts of Isri. Bagodar was not far from there. Mere two kilometers ride from the left deviation at Bagodar took me in front of the much hyped Harihar Dham Temple. You can clearly see the upper half of the mammoth Shivalinga right from the road where you'll be parking your vehicle. Harihar Dham Temple, a popular tourist cum pilgrimage destination at
Giridih, enclosing a 65 feet high Shivalinga, boasts of housing the
largest Shivalinga in the world. There is sufficient free area inside the temple complex. You can offer
puja to the presiding deity, or simply laze around to observe various
religious idiosyncrasies of other devotees and appreciate the
neck-straining stature of the mighty Shivalinga.
Usri Waterfall is formed by the steep descent of the Usri River 39 feet down a gorge! |
Among many other Hindu festivals, Nag Panchami is observed in Harihar Dham with great devotion. On a regular basis, Hindu marriages are conducted in this temple for a prefixed nominal fee. Shortly, a group of distant devotees clad in saffron, chanting "Om Namah Shivaya", playing drums and trumpets entered Harihar Dham, and I realized it was the right time to leave for Usri waterfall. My next landmark in G-Maps was Dumri over NH-2 from where one has to divert to Isri-Giridih Road. This road is remarkably scenic, almost fairly maintained and represents
the typical landforms of Chota Nagpur Plateau region. The same road can
take you to Madhuban, a pious town for Jains from where the ascent to Parasnath Hill actually starts. I headed to Giridih. Usri Falls is located another 10-12 kilometers
beyond Giridih, on the road towards Gobindpur. You can't ignore
Gobindpur, because that's where you'll rejoin NH-2 in case you're
planning your return journey towards Kolkata.
A dilapidated idol of Goddess Kali found in the jungle adjacent to Usri Falls. |
Excusing few kilometers of chaotic ongoing road construction over SH-13, just prior and post to Usri Falls, I appreciated the effort taken by Jharkhand Tourism (or, is it PWD?) to iron out the tarmac of Usri Falls Road. It meanders while ascending through the village and forest cover to take you up to the hissing mouth of feral Usri Waterfall. Usri Falls is undoubtedly the most precious gem in the tourist crown of
Giridih district. Usri Waterfall is formed by the steep descent of the
Usri River 39 feet down a gorge, into three separate untamed streams, to
transform into a relatively calm Usri River once again and join Barakar
River after a short while. Although Usri Falls won't charm you with clear blue water, her wild roar
and deep impact on scattered metamorphic rocks (as evident by their
polished, eroded surfaces) are sure to make you respectful towards her
powerful presence! Be careful while stepping down to approach the waterfall. Rocks are mostly wet and slippery. If you lose balance Usri will surely gulp you in a single sip. Don't get too close while capturing photographs too.
Parasnath Hill, the sacred pilgrimage for Jains veiled by monsoon clouds, as seen from NH-2. |
Heavy mist produced by the dynamic water can harm your camera lens. There is a stunted watchtower nearby. You may climb up its poorly built stairs to enjoy breeze at the top. Do not expect any better view of the waterfall from there. I straightened by back for a while. When I realized my eyes getting heavy, I woke myself up with a sudden jerk and bid hearty farewell to the beautiful Usri. Return journey to Bardhaman was almost uneventful, except the horrible late lunch devoured at Khalsa Vegies. Benu clocked almost 540 kilometers in the entire day, and with mud and dust ornamenting her curves she was all ready for her 2nd servicing. My monsoon ride to Giridih was overall a fun ride. Oh hold on folks, I've got an update to share. I'm flying to Leh this coming Tuesday. Once I reach Leh, I'll be renting a Royal Enfield Classic 350 to explore the mesmerizing Ladakh. Unfortunately I'm down with fever, just two days prior to the commencement of such a dream journey! Please wish me some luck here. See you soon with my Ladakh motorcycling diary.